Imprint

© Emons Verlag GmbH // 2016
All rights reserved
Text: Laurel Moglen and Julia Posey
All photos © Lyudmila Zotova, except: Boone Children’s Gallery (p. 31) – Photo © Museum Associates/LACMA; Kayaking on LA River (p. 123) – LA River Kayak Safari; L.A. Derby Dolls (p. 125) – Photo by Marc Campos, L.A. Derby Dolls; Machine Project (p. 133, top image) – Photo of Josh Beckman’s Sea Nymphcourtesy of Machine Project; Museum of Broken Relationships (p. 141) – Courtesy of the Museum of Broken Relationships; Norton Simon Museum (p. 157) – Norton Simon Art Foundation; The Source Restaurant (p. 195, top image) – The Source Family aftermorning meditation, photo by Isis Aquarian courtesy of Isis Aquarian Source Archives; Wildlife Waystation (p. 227) – Photo by Billy V Vaughn, Wildlife Waystation
Art credits: Machine Project (p. 133, top image) – Sea Nymph by the artist Josh Beckman; Velveteria (p. 217) – artwork pictured reprinted by permission of the artists: Caren Anderson (Liberace in blue vest); Caren Anderson & Cenon (center Liberace); Jennifer Kenworthaka Juanita’s Velvets (Liberace with red cape); CeCe Rodriguez (poodle in square frame, left of center Liberace)
Design: Emons Verlag
Maps based on data by Openstreetmap, © Openstreet Map-participants, ODbL
ISBN 978-3-96041-018-8
eBook of the original print edition published by Emons Verlag

Did you enjoy it? Do you want more? Join us in uncovering new places around the world on: www.111places.com

111 Places in Los Angeles That You Must Not Miss

Laurel Moglen and Julia Posey

emons: Verlag

Foreword

Dear Los Angeles,

So often you are misunderstood, viewed by the world through thenarrow lenses of the media and outsiders. Their images portray afame-obsessed metropolis filled with beautiful people in sceniclocations wearing seriously curated wardrobes. There’s also the trafficof course, so thick at times, drivers may as well turn their ignitions off.But we devoted Angelenos know that much more is going on outsideof the picture frame. Beneath your gridlock and glitzy veneer lies amarvelously sprawling city filled with experiences diverse, strange,titillating, nutritious, and imperfect.

We know you as a place of opportunity; of big dreams, searingdisappointments, and painful ideals. A city where the wild mesheswith the urban, the beautiful with the ugly, the magical with thereal. Brimming with surprises, you offer access to wildly contrastingplaces and experiences: a club where Mexican drag queens lip syncto 1970s hits, a punk-rock DIY perfume lab, a museum housing thecollection of the real Indiana Jones – and always close by is a hike ona chaparral-scented trail.

And the people! Angelenos speak 224 different languages andcome from more than 140 countries. You harbor deep thinkersand innovators, contributing to the world cutting-edge art andarchitecture, scientific advancements, and brave new ideas. To exploreyour deepest secrets we hung out with surfers, rock climbers, nichecollectors, two-steppers, artists, and historians – all of whom helpedus discover and divulge the rich and unexpected tales and localesdisclosed within these pages.

Sweet LA, this book is our humble attempt to celebrate your depthand complexity. You’re the city so many love to hate, and hate to love.But we know the explorers who read this authentic chronicle will,like us, come to adore you, and that means all of you.

– Laurel Moglen & Julia Posey

1_The 2nd Street Tunnel

Basking in the glow of traffic

Philip K. Dick fans, get your Blade Runner on and see something truly beautiful by entering the 2nd Street Tunnel in the evening at Figueroa Street and heading east. Watch the red reflections of brake lights illuminate the rainbow-shaped tunnel in a glittering spectacle. In the movie, solitary replicant hunter Rick Deckard drives through the tunnel awash in blue hues, the entrance and exits dripping with the constant acid rain of the futuristic city of Los Angeles.

Although Deckard is a loner, he’s not alone. The white tiles that line the 2nd Street Tunnel and the ability to easily cordon off the area to traffic and lookie-loos have made it a favorite location for car commercials and fashion shoots as well as other films like the notable sci-fi cousins Terminator and Gattica. The tunnel may be one of the most filmed unknown icons in Los Angeles. And it almost didn’t happen.

Construction began on the 2nd Street Tunnel in 1916. Downtown Los Angeles wasn’t the cluster of emerald skyscrapers it is today. It was Bunker Hill, primarily a residential wealthy suburb of opulent Victorian mansions, which separated Downtown from the rest of Los Angeles. That is, until the tunnel came through. The signature white tiles were sourced from Germany and as anti-German sentiment during World War I grew, so did opposition to using a German product. But the architect of the tunnel stood his aesthetic ground and the tunnel was completed, Teutonic tiles and all. Ironically, many of the wealthy inhabitants of the Bunker Hill enclave began to leave the area as the war came to an end and urbanism encroached on their formerly suburban lifestyle.

Many of the Victorians were later partitioned into apartments, two of which became home to writer John Fante and artist Leo Politi (see p. 126), who both went on to champion the new working class of Bunker Hill in their work.

To the text

2_Adams Pack Station

“Haulin’ ass since 1936”

In the foothills where Sierra Madre, Arcadia, and Monrovia meet, the Adams Pack Station in Chantry Flat has been providing asses, as in pack mules, since 1936, and cold beer and other sundries since 1953, to Angeles National Forest hikers and the 81 recreational cabins (serving as private vacation residences) that populate the area around and leading to Sturtevant Camp.

A walk in Big Santa Anita Canyon is like stepping back in time. Trails of varying difficulty start from the Adams Pack Station parking lot. A 3.8-mile round-trip hike past some of the cabins to Sturtevant Falls will make the bottle of icy suds awaiting your return feel like a well-deserved reward. The rustic cottages that dot the trails near Chantry Flat were built between 1907 and 1936 with materials carried in by mules and humans. The cabins exist on a special use permit from the U.S. Forest Service and cabin owners lease the land upon which the dwellings sit.

For those looking to spend the night, primitive campsites at Hoegee and Spruce Grove Campgrounds, about a two- and four-mile hike, respectively, from Chantry Flat, operate on a first-come-first-serve basis. If that seems too hardy, Adams Pack Station’s proprietress, Deb Burgess, recently acquired Sturtevant Camp. The nostalgic mountain resort offers cabins for rent on the weekends with flushable toilets and hot showers (learn more at www.sturtevantcamp.com). All food and supplies must be brought in. Make arrangements at least a week in advance with Adams Pack Station to have a mule do the heavy lifting.

Friday to Sunday, the station grills hot food on outdoor barbecues next to the main building, offering excellent burgers and fries and sometimes pulled-pork sandwiches. Live music is performed on Sundays from noon to 5:30pm. Get to the station by 8am on Friday morning for the best chance of seeing the mule team head out on their weekly canyon haul.

To the text

3_Amèrica Tropical

A long-lost triumph rediscovered

In the late 1960s, just as the Chicano political movement was establishing its identity, hints of a mural were found bleeding through a whitewashed wall just off Olvera Street in Los Angeles. Originally created in 1932 by revered Mexican muralist and activist David Alfaro Siqueiros, the painting’s discovery was perfectly timed. Siqueiros, along with artists Diego Rivera and Josè Clemente Orozco, had become an inspiration for the then burgeoning Chicano art movement.

Siqueiros had been commissioned to create an image of America as the land of plenty. But the artist had other plans. Amèrica Tropical depicts two soldiers in the Mexican Revolution aiming at an American eagle sitting atop a double cross on which a Mexican Indian is being crucified. The painting was an enraged criticism of United States oppression and immediately sparked controversy. About a month after his shocking mural was unveiled, Siqueiros was deported from the United States. Within a year, the work was completely covered over. Later, Siqueiros said he’d never intended to paint “a continent of happy men, surrounded by palms and parrots, where the fruit voluntarily detached itself to fall into the mouths of the happy mortals.” It’s said he often painted at night to keep his artistic choices secret.

Effective protection, not restoration, of the mural began in the 1990s by the Getty Conservation Institute. It took more than 20 years to clean and preserve the discovery. The choice to restore was rejected because experts believed the original colors and artist’s hand would be impossible to duplicate.

The mural can be viewed from a rooftop landing quite a distance away. Still, it’s profound to gaze upon, especially knowing its history. The building beneath houses the Amèrica Tropical Interpretive Center. It’s full of interactive features with rich insight into the times, Siqueiros, and his nearly forgotten masterpiece.

To the text

4_Angelus Temple

Step right up to hear a tale both wondrous and true

Showman. Preacher. Charlatan. Healer. Aimee Semple McPherson is tough to define. Today, most Angelenos have never heard her name, but it was quite a different story in the 1920s. Her popularity at one point was so great that 10 percent of Los Angeles belonged to her Angelus Temple, which she designed with her mother in 1923.

Widowed at age 19, McPherson remarried at 22. Her call to preach was so strong, she got her start broadcasting sermons through a loudspeaker from the back of her “gospel car,” touring up and down the Eastern seaboard with her two children as passengers and her mother at the wheel. Outrageous behavior for a woman in those days. Like any good showman, she traveled, set up tents, held boisterous sermons, and inspired “speaking in tongues.” As her fame grew, so did her bank account, and she soon made her way to Los Angeles. Her philosophy focused on the rapture that comes from serving God rather than the torment suffered for forsaking Him. When preaching, she told relatable anecdotes with a permanent smile, a girlish giggle, and down-to-earth humor. Sometimes she spiced up her sermons with theatrics – like when she rode a motorcycle down the church aisle. Apparently she spent bank on Parisian gowns and kept her dyed-blond hair fashionably styled.

After she purportedly healed a wheelchair-bound woman, word of her faith-healing powers spread exponentially. She was the first woman granted a broadcast license from the FCC and the first to preach on the radio. She purchased the radio station KFSG and aired sermons and programs directly from the temple, leveraging the then-modern medium to reach millions.

But along the rise to stardom were also scandals: a kidnapping; a disappearance; and a walk, Jesus-style, through a Mexican desert. There were nervous breakdowns, a falling-out with her daughter and mother, and finally an accidental fatal overdose, in 1944.

To the text

5_Audubon Center

Into the wild

The Audubon Center is a hidden gem on the northwest tip of the 282-acre Debs Park. This little-known park delivers a gorgeous outdoor experience without the crowds. Don’t expect to find conventional swing sets or jungle gyms. Here, nature is the playground. Decomposed granite trails connect to reveal a hand-operated water pump. A small man-made pond holds frogs, which careful hands are welcome to catch, observe, and release. Small buckets and shovels are available for young adventurers to dig and play with. Three solar-powered fountains are home to fish and native riparian plants in an expansive courtyard. Dashing bright blue iridescent damselflies dip and sip in the water. Alert eyes can watch them bend into a C-shape, ovipositor protruding as they lay eggs. Native plants, many propagated on-site, flourish in a wild but well-maintained garden.

Created in 2003, the Audubon Center creatively brought environmental education to an underserved area. Outreach programs, day camps, musical performances, outdoor movie screenings, and of course bird walks, are all part of what the center has to offer.

The airy conference building with taxidermied bird specimens displayed on upper shelves is the first completely off-the-grid government building in Los Angeles. Solar panels supply enough energy to run the entire building, bathrooms, and accompanying fountains. Recycling and reuse is a theme: even the rebar in the concrete structure was made from melted-down handguns.

Although open to all ages, the center is especially good for young families: the complex and gardens are fenced off, allowing little explorers to roam without entering the surrounding parkland.

Feeling more adventurous? A .25-mile trail into the park starts at the far side of the courtyard. It is an easy hike but with a slight elevation that might challenge a child accordingly – and perhaps facilitate an early nap.

To the text

6_Baldwin Hills Scenic Overlook

A different point of view

The relatively small mountain between Culver City and Baldwin Hills offers a spectacular 360-degree view of the city and an opportunity for a great workout or leisurely stroll, depending on your intent and ambition.

The California State Park attracts many exercise-focused individuals and groups sporting Lycra outfits, more than a few eschewing earbuds to share their workout soundtrack with the masses. The draw is the stacked concrete steps ascending 719 feet with different-height risers. Stair goers often hug and rightfully congratulate one another at the top. Alternatively, a 2.5-mile trail offers a winding route to the summit, or you can simply drive to the upper parking lot.

If the climb doesn’t take your breath away, the view, unlike any other in the city, will. To the northeast, Downtown Los Angeles’s skyline rises like a cluster of princess-cut emeralds. Moving your eyes past Griffith Observatory and the Hollywood sign, you spot the big blue Pacific Design Center building sitting in the middle of the vista, and to the left the towering buildings on Sunset Boulevard, then Westwood farther west, and Malibu in the distance. To the southwest, LAX busily traffics a steady stream of jets coming and going. The Inglewood oil fields to the south look like a picture from the 1920s, with pumps like oversized Dippy Birds eternally bowing and rising.

The 58-acre park has been reclaimed from oil drilling, and the restoration of native plants, prickly pear cactus, and sunflower bush fosters a healthy home for towhees, bushtits, butterflies, and more. Open on Saturdays, a nature center at the crest of the hill features hands-on exhibits and a theater screening wildlife-related short documentaries. Bathrooms and water are available but no food for purchase, though there is a picnic table for those who bring their own.

To the text

7_Berendo Stairs to the Griffith Observatory

Stairway to the stars

The Berendo Stairs, built in 1924 – the same year as the Frank Lloyd Wright Ennis House in the neighborhood – exhibit a bit of the old glamour of Los Angeles. The three flights of steps with graceful sloped concrete banisters ascend 557 feet. Curved benches situated along the way are useful for hikers wanting to take a stylish breather while enjoying the great view. The “neighborhood Stairmaster” ends with a trail into Griffith Park and access to Griffith Observatory.

The logistics: starting at Berendo Street and Crowell Avenue, climb the first and longest set of steps up to Bonvue Avenue. Turn right and follow Bonvue Avenue past the first flight of stairs on the left (this flight lands on Glencairn Road and, although pretty, won’t get you to the Observatory without taking a mazelike path through neighborhood streets and skipping the other flights of stairs completely). Continue to the second set of steps on the left, Glendower Stairs, a few feet before Glendower Avenue. The first flight of Glendower Stairs opens to Bryn Mawr Road. Take a quick right and then left to catch the second flight up to Glendower Avenue. Exit the stairs to the right and walk northeast to Glendower Road. The big yellow sign saying “No access to Griffith Observatory” means no access to vehicles – bipeds and quadrupeds (leashed dogs) are welcome.

For hikers wishing to adventure on to Griffith Observatory – and the steps where James Dean famously screamed, “I got the bullets!” inRebel Without a Cause – follow Glendower Road, taking the trail into the park before the road turns sharply right. Head along the trail, staying to the left at the fork. Turn left on the big fire trail road and then take a hairpin turn to the right to reach the observatory. The hike to the observatory from the trailhead is just over a half mile.

To the text

8_Biddy Mason Memorial

From slave to wealthy landowner

Despite Biddy Mason’s relative obscurity, there is a pocket park with descriptive plaques dedicated to her memory – for good reason. Mason was born into slavery on a Mississippi plantation in 1818. Her master decided to move west in 1847, stopping in Utah for a time before ultimately settling in Los Angeles in 1851. It’s said Mason was forced to walk almost 2,000 miles. Along the way, she prepared meals, acted as midwife, cared for her three young daughters, and herded animals.

Mason befriended members of the small African American community in LA, who probably informed her that California was a free state. But the law pertaining to slaves brought in by their master was unclear, and the specter of the Fugitive Slave Act of 1850 meant that an African-American could still be determined a slave at any time and ripped away to a slave state.

To avoid the possibility of losing his slaves, Mason’s master decided to return to the South. En route, his ploy was foiled. It’s likely a friend of Mason’s alerted the sheriff, who showed up in the middle of the night, taking Mason and her fellow slaves to jail – thinking that was the safest place for them. This led to a court trial during which Mason sought and won her freedom as well as the freedom of 13 fellow slaves.